---Frequently Asked Questions---Home Décor---No-Sew Shade Kit
 
Questions
 
 
What does the kit contain?
 
Is the June Tailor No-Sew Shade Kit available in other sizes?
 
Where can I purchase the June Tailor No-Sew Shade Kit?
 
Does the June Tailor No-Sew Shade Kit contain fabric?
 
What size or weight of fabric is needed?
 
Are components in the kit sold separately?
 
What tools do I need from home?
 
Must I use the pull slat at the bottom of my shade?
 
What do I do if my telescoping roller bar won’t expand?
 
Why do the instructions say to cut extra inches of fabric and shade material?
 
How do I prevent the fabric edges from fraying?
 
What do I do if my fabric edges are lifting?
 
What do I do if an air bubble appears in my shade?
 
Why does half the roller bar have an adhesive strip?
 
Which way do I apply my shade to the roller bar?
 
What do I do if my shade won’t retract?
 
Answers
 
What does the kit contain?
 
Each June Tailor No-Sew Shade Kit contains one precut piece of fusible shade material measuring 36” W by 72” L, one telescoping roller bar that expands to fit windows 26 1/2” to 36” wide, one wooden pull slat, one profile template (offering four bottom edge profile designs), one roll of fusible tape, mounting hardware, and instructions for assembly.
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Is the June Tailor No-Sew Shade Kit available in other sizes?
 
Currently we offer one No-Sew Shade Kit. The fusible shade material contained in the kit is precut to measure 36” W by 72” L. The telescoping roller bar also offered, expands to fit windows 26 1/2” to 36” wide. If your window measures less than 26 1/2” wide or more than 36” wide the kit would not work appropriately. Although, depending on the design of your window, it may be possible to use multiple shade kits on one window as in the case of some bay windows.
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Where can I purchase the June Tailor No-Sew Shade Kit?
 
Presently, the kit is available at JoAnn Fabrics, Hancock Fabrics, The Fabric Place, and online at www.hancockfabrics.com. Our Manufacturers Suggested Retail Price is available from the Select Products section of this site, current retail prices are available at the respective retail stores.
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Does the June Tailor No-Sew Shade Kit contain fabric?
 
No. The kit allows you the flexibility to choose a fabric of your choice so to personalize the shade and suit your room needs. Decorative fabric should be purchased separately.
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What size or weight of fabric is needed?
 
The No-Sew shade kit is designed to work with both 45” calico style fabric as well as 54” decorator weight fabric. Upholstery weight fabric may also be used, although you must be mindful that any coating sometimes found on the back of these fabrics, can withstand the heat and steam of your iron. It may be helpful to consult your fabric professional.
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Are components in the kit sold separately?
 
All components found in the kit are sold only in kit form. At the present time, June Tailor’s fusible shade material is not sold in bulk or by the bolt. The kit is designed to offer you all necessary parts (with the exception of decorative fabric) to complete the kit successfully.
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What tools do I need from home?
 
The only tools that you will need from home include; a scissors, tape measure, marking tool such as pen or pencil, masking tape or glue, iron, screwdriver, pliers and of course decorative fabric and trim if desired.
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Must I use the pull slat at the bottom of my shade?
 
What makes the June Tailor Shade Kit unique is the profile template that we have included in the kit. This acrylic template contains four popular profiles to choose from that can add interest and a professional look to your window shade. If you choose to embellish the bottom edge with a decorative profile you can still incorporate the pull slat above (typically 5” - 6”) the profiled edge. (Simply follow kit instructions.) Then again, you may also choose to incorporate the pull slat along the bottom edge, creating a clean and classic look.
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What do I do if my telescoping roller bar won’t expand?
 
The telescoping components of the roller bar are designed to be “close-fitting”. The white plastic end is the end that pulls from beneath the other/overlapping bar. If your bar is particularly “snug”, first check that there are no dents that may impede the bars from separating. If the bar is free of damage, it may be necessary to use a pliers to grab the white capped end and pull away from the top bar.
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Why do the instructions say to cut extra inches of fabric and shade material?
 
The kit directions instruct you to cut both your fabric and fusible shade material a few inches larger than your window measurements. This is to ensure that you do not come up short on your final shade. It is often difficult to fuse two “exact” cut pieces of material perfectly. Fabric tends to “creep” when fusing it to another medium. We found that rough cutting oversized pieces first, fusing then trimming to exact size ensures that you will have success in the final shade product.
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How do I prevent the fabric edges from fraying?
 
The fusible shade material found in the kit, if properly fused, should limit or omit fabric fraying. If your fabric is particularly prone to fraying you may use one of the two following suggestions to control fraying. 1.) The kit contains a roll of fusible tape so you may choose to turn your edges under and fuse to the backside of the shade material. Keep in mind that this may be visible from the backside of your shade. 2.) Another option may be to use Fray Block™ along the side edges to prevent fraying. Fray Block™ is a June Tailor product designed to prevent fabric fraying. Simply apply a fine line of Fray Block™ to the edges of your shade and allow to dry. (It may be necessary to test on a piece of scrap fabric first.)
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What do I do if my fabric edges are lifting?
 
The fusible shade material contains a durable fusible on one side. This fusible is activated by the heat of your home iron, as you press the fabric to the shade backing. The kit instructions direct you to slowly press all areas of your fabric ensuring the decorative fabric fuses securely to the shade material. It is sometimes helpful to also use steam. If your fabric lifts it likely needs additional pressing.
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What do I do if an air bubble appears in my shade?
 
Air pockets area result of air trapped in your shade after fusing. To avoid air bubbles, always press from the center outward, never from the outer edges in. If an air pocket arises, simply use a needle or pin to “pop” or release the air and press simultaneously, fusing the fabric securely to the backing.
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Why does half the roller bar have an adhesive strip?
 
The roller bar is designed to telescope from 21” to 36”. Because of this beneficial feature an adhesive strip is only permissible on the outer bar of the telescoping rod and not the inside bar. The adhesive strip is a guideline for applying your fabricated shade and it is necessary for you to use masking tape or other form of adhesive to securely attach the entire shade.
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Which way do I apply my shade to the roller bar?
 
You may apply your fabric and shade to your roller bar to suit your personal needs. Some people choose to have their shade roll behind the bar and over the top so the shade is closer to the window, minimizing light allowed in the room. In this case you will see a roll of white shade backing at the top of your shade when the shade is in the “up” position and you may choose to “hide” this behind another window treatment. If you choose to use the shade in this manner you must affix the shade to the roller bar so that when you pull it down, it “adds” tension to the roller bar.

You may also apply the fabricated shade so that the shade rolls up and over the front of the bar, showing only decorative fabric when in the “up” position. Again, if you choose to use the shade in this manner you must affix the shade to the roller bar so that when you pull it down it “adds” tension to the roller bar. (This would mean that the bar is used the opposite way as the first scenario.)
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What do I do if my shade won’t retract?
 
The roller bar that your shade is mounted to is a tension rod. The rods are shipped with tension on them but can sometimes “spring” during shipping. There are two distinct ends to the roller bar; a white plastic end and a metal tabbed end. The metal tab is where you wind tension on to the roller bar. If your rod has no tension wound on it, (it may feel loose) it will be necessary to do so. Simply turn the metal tab clockwise to wind tension. Turn several full turns until it becomes difficult to turn. If it is uncomfortable to wind with your fingers, use a pliers or the backside of a hammer. Be careful not to spring the tension as you wind, making sure that with each turn, the tension locks in place and the cogs catch. If you should spring the tension as you go, simply start again.

This being said, it may be necessary to examine a few things if your shade is not working properly once you have mounted it. 1.) Did you mount the fabricated shade properly to the roller bar? Remember that when you pull the shade down you are “adding” tension to the roller bar and when you tug to retract the shade, your are “releasing” tension from the roller bar. Check to see that the fabricated shade and roller bar are both mounted properly. Once the tab is mounted into the hardware the rod will only be able to turn in one direction, make sure that this correlates with how your shade is rolling off the roller bar. 2.) Is there proper tension on your roller bar? Make sure that you have wound proper tension on your roller bar following the tips above. And 3.) Are you trying to pull a completely wound roller bar down? If your bar is at full tension it will not pull down (adding more tension). If you have a fully wound roller bar it will be helpful to mount it in the “shade down” position. This way when you retract the shade, the appropriate amount of tension will release from your shade, (this correlates with the length of you shade) thus “training” it.
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